HomeMy WebLinkAboutHPC Agenda Packet 12.10.2020
IOWA CITY HISTORIC PRESERVATION COMMISSION
Thursday, December 10, 2020
Electronic Meeting – 5:30 p.m.
Zoom Meeting Platform
Agenda
A) Call to Order
B) Roll Call
C) Public discussion of anything not on the agenda
D) Public Hearing Local Landmark Designation – 410/412 North Clinton Street – Cochrane-
Sharpless-Dennis House
E) Certificate of Appropriateness
1133 East Court Street – Longfellow Historic District (synthetic and original siding removal and
replacement and porch redesign)
F) Report on Certificates issued by Chair and Staff
Certificate of No Material Effect – Chair and Staff review
1. 1133 East Court Street – Longfellow Historic District (roof shingle replacement)
2. 12 Bella Vista Place – Brown Street Historic District (storm damaged roof and internal gutter
replacement)
Minor Review –Staff review
1. 533 South Lucas Street – Governor-Lucas Street Conservation District (storm repair to rear
including window replacement)
Electronic Meeting
(Pursuant to Iowa Code section 21.8)
An electronic meeting is being held because a meeting in person is impossible or impractical
due to concerns for the health and safety of Commission members, staff and the public
presented by COVID-19.
You can participate in the meeting and can comment on an agenda item by going to
https://zoom.us/meeting/register/tJ0pcumuqjMjGNDJnY9-AUgYKFkjkuFrTIgl to visit the
Zoom meeting’s registration page and submitting the required information. Once approved,
you will receive an email message with a link to join the meeting. If you are asked for a meeting
or webinar ID, enter the ID number found in the email. If you have no computer or
smartphone, or a computer without a microphone, you can call in by phone by dialing (312)
626-6799 and entering the meeting ID 994 5064 8924 when prompted. Providing comment in
person is not an option.
2. 420 East Jefferson Street – Jefferson Street Historic District (front step and railing replacement)
3. 1527 Muscatine Avenue – Dearborn Street Conservation District (past approval revised to
include window replacement)
Intermediate Review –Chair and Staff review
1. 534 Clark Street – Clark Street Conservation District (addition to an existing screened porch)
2. 430 Oakland – Longfellow Historic District (minor review to previous COA for new garage and
curb cut)
G) Consideration of Minutes for November 12, 2020
H) Commission Information
I) Adjournment
If you will need disability-related accommodations in order to participate in this meeting, please contact Jessica
Bristow, Urban Planning, at 319-356-5243 or at jessica-bristow@iowa-city.org. Early requests are strongly encouraged
to allow sufficient time to meet your access needs.
Iowa City
Historic Preservation Commission
City Hall, 410 E Washington Street, Iowa City. IA. 52240
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Memorandum
Date: December 3, 2020
To: Historic Preservation Commission
From: Jessica Bristow, Historic Preservation Planner
Re: 410-412 North Clinton Street, Cochrane-Sharpless-Dennis House
A sub-committee of the Commission completed a study and identified several of Iowa City’s early brick
houses as priorities for local landmark designation. The subcommittee requested that the property at
410 N. Clinton Street, the Cochrane-Sharpless-Dennis House, be designated as an Iowa City Historic
Landmark in late 2017. In Spring 2018, a supermajority of Council failed to approve that landmark
designation.
Since then, City staff has worked with developers to create a plan for redevelopment of the neighboring
properties to the South and the rear portion of this property. This plan also includes landmark
designation of this property and a rehabilitation plan for the historic house that would be approved by
the Historic Preservation Commission following the landmark designation and completed prior to
completion of the development project.
The enclosed Iowa Site Inventory Form provides a discussion of the building’s history and architecture
and the enclosed summary sheet provides additional information obtained through staff and
Commission research. Indications are that the building was built in 1865. It should be noted that the
historic portion of the house currently functions as a rooming house and provides affordable housing
that is no longer allowed by code. This type of housing includes individual living spaces and shared
bathrooms, providing housing for those who do not need or cannot afford more private space.
Designation of the property as an Iowa City Historic Landmark will require Commission approval of any
significant changes to the exterior of the building. Landmark status will also make the property eligible
for special exceptions that would allow the Board of Adjustment to waive or modify certain zoning
requirements.
The Commission should determine if the property meets both Criteria A and B and at least one of the
additional criteria (C-F) for local designation listed below:
a. Significant to American and/or Iowa City history, architecture, archaeology and culture;
b. Possesses integrity of location, design, setting, materials and workmanship;
c. Associated with events that have made a significant contribution to the broad patterns of our
history;
d. Associated with the lives of persons significant in our past;
e. Embodies the distinctive characteristics of a type, period, or method of construction; or
represents the work of a master; or possesses high artistic values; or represents a
significant and distinguishable entity whose components may lack individual distinction;
f. Has yielded or may likely yield information important in prehistory or history.
Iowa City
Historic Preservation Commission
City Hall, 410 E Washington Street, Iowa City. IA. 52240
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Staff finds that 410-412 N. Clinton Street meets criteria A in that it is one of Iowa City’s few remaining
Civil War-era homes and criteria B in that it is an intact example of Italianate residential architecture in
Iowa City that is not diminished by the addition because it is located behind the house. Staff finds that it
meets criteria D in because of its association with active prominent members of the Iowa City
community especially Cochrane and Sharpless. It also meets Criterion E as an intact representative of
the Italianate-style architecture in Iowa City
Recommended Motion:
Move to approve the designation of 410-412 N. Clinton Street as an Iowa City Historic Landmark based
on the following criteria for local designation: criteria A, B, D, and E.
Staff Report December 3, 2020
Historic Review for 1133 East Court Street
District: Longfellow Historic District
Classification: Contributing
The applicants, Gosia and Adam Clore, are requesting approval for a proposed alteration project at 1133 East
Court Street, a Contributing property in the Longfellow Historic District. The project consists of the removal
of the synthetic siding and the installation of cement board siding, either covering or removing original siding
where it exists, and reconstructing the front porch which is currently enclosed.
Applicable Regulations and Guidelines:
4.0 Iowa City Historic Preservation Guidelines for Alterations
4.1 Balustrades and Handrails
4.4 Energy Efficiency
4.10 Porches
4.11 Siding
4.14 Wood
7.0 Guidelines for Demolition
7.1 Demolition of Whole Structures or Significant Features
10 .0 Secretary of the Interior’s Standards for Rehabilitation
Staff Comments
This house was built ca. 1910-1924 as a Foursquare with a low-pitched hip roof, flared eaves, and dormers.
The dormers have paired windows. The windows in the main floors of the house appear to be one-over-one
double hung windows. The porch was enclosed with combination windows about 1972. A 2-story rear
addition was added in 1998. The house is clad in aluminum siding which was likely installed during one of
these projects.
In 2005, the Commission approved changes to the rear deck built in 1998. In 2013, the Commission
approved the installation of skylights in the south (rear) portion of the hip roof and the replacement of the
vinyl deck railing with wood. Earlier in 2020, staff approved the replacement of the roof shingles, the
replacement of the porch roof membranes, the installation of a railing on the second-floor rear porch and the
removal of the aluminum siding at the front porch. Replacement and repair of deteriorated material to match
the existing was included while the porch redesign would need to be approved by the full Commission.
Current Project Description
The applicant’s original application in April proposed removing the aluminum siding and installing fiber
cement board over any original siding underneath. The rear portion around the 1998 addition is assumed to
have no siding underneath the aluminum. The siding and windows would be removed from the front porch
and it would be reconstructed as an enclosed porch with column details and other associated trim. At one
point, during discussion, the applicant suggested that a goal for the project was to remove all of the siding,
trim, and sheathing to insulate the house. They have also suggested a desire to avoid lead contamination from
the paint on the original siding. Finally, they have suggested removing all of the aluminum siding because of
some derecho damage (that has not been documented so the extent is unknown) and installing new
aluminum over the original siding.
The original application also included the addition of three windows to the rear in the Southwest corner.
While the porch and siding has been discussed multiple times, the window portion of the project has not
been discussed further and no other information has been provided. That portion of the original application
is not included here. For approval, clarification of window location and product information would be
required, including elevation drawings showing the windows.
Historic Preservation Guidelines
The guidelines begin the Alteration Section (4.0) with the following statement:
Alterations to both contributing and noncontributing properties, as well as landmarks,
should be done in a manner that is appropriate to the style and age of the building, as well as
its neighborhood context. The historic character and integrity of older buildings should be
maintained by repairing historic components to the extent feasible and using traditional
materials and techniques.
Section 4.1 Balustrades and handrails recommends constructing or replacing missing balustrades by using
historic photographs or by choosing a style that is consistent with the architectural style of the building.
Section 4.4 Energy Efficiency recommends the following regarding insulation: “Insulate the attic, basement,
and crawl space. About 20% of energy costs come from heat loss in those areas.” This section includes
recommendations to seal gaps and use weather-stripping to prevent heat loss. It also recommends repair and
material reuse to prevent unnecessary landfill waste.
In Section 4.10 Porches, the guidelines recommend repairing historic elements to retain them. and “replacing
badly deteriorated elements with those that match the historic components in design and material.” Porch
floors would be vertical-grained Douglas fir porch flooring (which is tongue and groove). “Porch skirting
must be added to fill the space below the porch floor porch between piers if the space is 18 inches or greater.
It is disallowed by the guidelines to “enclose front porches with permanent windows or walls.” According to
the guidelines, “porches are the focus of many historic buildings and help define their overall character. In
historic residential neighborhoods, front porches help to establish a sense of community. Front porches and
sun porches should be preserved for both their architectural and social value.”
Section 4.11 Siding recommends “replacing deteriorated sections of wood siding with new or salvaged wood
siding that matches the historic wood siding.” It is also recommended to remove “synthetic siding and repair
historic wood siding and trim.” It is disallowed to “remove historic trim pieces such as door and window
trim, skirt and frieze boards, and corner boards.” “Matching synthetic siding may be used to repair damage to
small sections of existing synthetic siding.” Fiber cement board with a smooth finish is often an appropriate
substitute for wood. This section also begins with an opening statement:
“Wood siding along with the trim details and a variety of paint colors combine to make one
of the most important defining characteristics of historic districts. This display of detail and
color is essential to the character of the older neighborhoods, and therefore siding is
protected by the design guidelines.
The primary threat to the traditional appearance of older neighborhoods has been the
application of synthetic siding. This has been installed in an effort to avoid periodic painting.
While synthetic siding may last longer than an application of paint, it does deteriorate over
time and does need to be replaced when it fades, cracks, dents, or deteriorates. The
application of synthetic siding covers many architectural details of a building, damages the
historic siding and trim, traps moisture within the walls, and in some cases, necessitates the
removal of historic elements altogether. For all of these reasons the covering of historic
properties with synthetic siding is not allowed.”
Section 4.14 Wood says it is disallowed to “cover original wood siding, soffits, and eave boards with
another material...” It should be noted that section 4.9 Paint and Color includes many of the
common practices for safe removal of lead paint.
Section 10, Secretary of the Interior’s Standards for Rehabilitation includes Standard 2 which says,
“the historic character of a property shall be retained and preserved. The removal of historic
materials or alteration of features and spaces that characterize a property shall be avoided.” Standard
3 says: “each property shall be recognized as a physical record of its time, place and use. Changes that
create a false sense of historical development, such as adding conjectural features or architectural
elements form other buildings, shall not be undertaken.” Standard 6 says “Deteriorated historic
features shall be repaired rather than replaced. Where the severity of deterioration requires
replacement of a distinctive feature, the new feature shall match the old in design, color, texture, and
other visual qualities and, where possible, materials. Replacement of missing features shall be
substantiated by documentary, physical, or pictorial evidence.”
Historic Review
This property currently includes two conditions which are disallowed by the guidelines, are currently
grandfathered-in, and are the subject of this application: the aluminum siding and the enclosed front porch.
Both situations may continue to remain with the approval of minor repairs indefinitely. The appropriate
sections of the guidelines include specific recommendations on minor repairs.
Siding
When aluminum or steel siding is damaged by a storm, repair can follow the guidelines by toothing-in new
siding in damaged areas, allowing the disallowed condition to remain. If the siding is no longer manufactured,
it is often possible to find an approximate match or to move siding from one area to patch and residing its
original location with new closely matching siding. One of the persistent barriers in matching synthetic siding
is color. The original color will fade and crack over time, requiring maintenance. Steel and aluminum can and
should be painted when the material fades. In an effort to reduce landfill waste, it is also a more sustainable
solution than replacement. Painting will also allow a closely matching repair to blend with the rest of the
house. Finally, repair and repainting will allow a house to maintain its synthetic siding following a storm or
similar event because it meets the guidelines. New installation of synthetic siding on the entire house is
disallowed by the guidelines. For this reason, staff recommends that storm damage is repaired following the
guidelines by installing new or reclaimed material that matches as close as possible (lap-size and texture) and
is painted as necessary.
The guidelines recommend the removal of aluminum siding and the repair of the original siding and would
also be the solution if aluminum siding was pervasively damaged. Where the original wood siding is heavily
deteriorated, using new or reclaimed material to match the existing is recommended. The goal of the
guidelines is to remove inappropriate materials and to repair, and return to use, the original material, exposing
the original character and architectural details. The guidelines are clear that it is disallowed to remove original
siding and trim unless it is deteriorated to be replaced with matching material. Covering original wood with
synthetic material can damage the original material in the installation process and over time as moisture is
trapped in the wall. Installing lap siding such as cement board over original siding would lead to increased
damage to the original material because of the increased use of fasteners across the length of the material (as
opposed to the periodic or edge fasteners used with most synthetic siding).
Installing a material such as cement board over original siding also changes the relationship between the
siding and trim and openings. One of the uses of trim is to bridge gaps between materials and at corners
created by changes in depth or direction of the wall plane. While trim does not prevent water from entering
the wall, it helps to direct water away. Aesthetically, trim is among the most important elements of the
historic character of the building. It emphasizes elements and marks transitions. It creates a hierarchy of
architectural elements. Adding a siding layer to the outside of a historic house alters all of these relationships.
Gaps may be created where they didn’t exist. Openings and their trim may appear more recessed than
intended. Staff would not recommend approval of the application of another siding over the original siding
on a historic house because is it disallowed by the guidelines, will damage the original material and impact the
historic character of the building.
It should be noted that removing all siding and trim on a historic house is not appropriate according to the
guidelines even when the goal is to install insulation. In addition to reasons mentioned above, wholesale
removal would likely damage previously undamaged pieces. Reinstallation of the original material would lead
to permanent changes. Replacing this material with new, when it is not deteriorated is disallowed by the
guidelines and would create unnecessary waste. The application of insulation in historic wood frame, plaster-
walled residential construction is considered controversial in preservation literature. Unless the process
includes the installation of a vapor barrier between the plaster and the stud-wall, moisture from the interior of
the house can migrate into the wall cavity where it will condensate making the new insulation wet. This
insulation can never dry out. This moisture trapped in the wall system can lead to the failure of the plaster but
most often leads to a failure of the siding so that paint cannot adhere properly and fails. Rigid insulation
installed between siding and sheathing will change the exterior details as discussed above. It also requires an
air space between the insulation and the siding, further increasing the depth of the wall cladding. When
homeowners want to increase the energy efficiency of historic homes, the guidelines and historic preservation
sources recommend insulating attic floors and basements as well as sealing air gaps and applying weather-
stripping. Wall insulation typically does not provide enough benefit to outweigh the cost and damage that can
be incurred. A plaster and lath stud-wall system with board sheathing has a greater thermal mass than modern
stud-wall system with sheetrock, making wall insulation less beneficial in a historic house. The attached
document, “Energy Efficiency in Historic Homes” was created by Heritage Works for the city of Dubuque
and discusses historic home energy efficiency in our local climate. The attached article by well-known
preservationist, Bob Yapp, “Myths About Insulating Old House Walls” discusses insulation and these issues.
Staff would not recommend approval of the removal of original siding and trim from a historic house unless
it is deteriorated beyond repair.
Porch
For this porch, the porch piers, floor, and roof are most likely the only original remaining elements. The
applicant’s removal of the aluminum siding and windows is recommended by the guidelines. The guidelines
further recommend that the porch is rebuilt either following photographic evidence, of which we have none,
or as is appropriate to the architectural style, location and date of construction. Adding conjectural features
that are not supported by this evidence could create a false sense of history and should be avoided. Since the
house does not exhibit any evidence of overly elaborate trim details and it is a Foursquare built when
Craftsman details were more popular than Queen Anne details, porch elements such as turned spindles and a
spindled architrave (frieze board) would not be considered appropriate.
Staff has reviewed properties similar to 1133 Court in an attempt to evaluate potential porch details to model
for the reconstruction of its porch. Some of the architectural features which were compared are noted on the
attached photos. While houses in the Northside neighborhoods were also reviewed, it was determined that
Court Street had a large number of Foursquares with a wide variety of Architectural details so that the review
could be very localized. While a significant number of these houses had an arched frieze board, there are
others with a more simple, straight frieze board. Staff finds that while an arched frieze board could be
supported if the applicant’s wished, it would not be considered the only appropriate configuration. The
number of columns also varies between two and three. In the cases where three exists, the porch stairs are
framed on the inside by a half-column or tall pier. Since the two-column design is structurally more expensive
and no more appropriate than the three-column version, staff supports the three-column design. Staff further
finds that the porch columns and balustrade at 1152 Court Street is the most appropriate model for the porch
reconstruction at 1133 Court. Several details in other properties staff does not find appropriate here, such as
battered (sloped) columns, thinner proportions, and overly ornate balustrades. They are shown in the
attached photos.
Staff does not recommend approval of a porch reconstruction with permanent walls and windows because it
is disallowed by the guidelines. The current enclosure will be entirely removed so it will no longer be
grandfathered-in. The roof and floor, as original materials, should remain unless deteriorated beyond repair.
Similar to other properties on Court Street, the applicants could construct the porch to mimic 1152 Court
Street and install screens and storm windows. Screens and storm windows are not regulated and can be
installed and replaced without approval. Only permanent walls and windows are disallowed but the guidelines.
The porch at 1152 Court Street provides an example of a historic porch construction that could be partially
enclosed, while still meeting the guidelines. Staff recommends approval of a porch reconstruction that mimics
the porch at 1152 Court, does not remove original materials unless deteriorated, and is not permanently
enclosed.
Recommended Motions
(Motions must be made in the affirmative and then voted down if the application is being denied.)
Siding removal: Move to approve a Certificate of Appropriateness for the project at 1133 East Court Street,
removing the aluminum siding and either including the removal of the original siding and trim without regard
to its condition or the installation of new siding over the original siding.
Siding repair: Move to approve a Certificate of Appropriateness for the project at 1133 East Court Street,
removing the aluminum siding and repairing the original siding and trim, replacing deteriorated or missing
pieces, with wood, smooth cement board or smooth LP Smartside, any of which will match the original.
Porch reconstruction: Move to approve a Certificate of Appropriateness for the porch reconstruction project
at 1133 East Court Street as presented in the staff report with the following conditions:
The new porch will mimic the porch at 1152 East Court Street
The new porch will not be permanently enclosed
All materials will be wood or approved by staff and Chair
1133 Court Street
Flared eaves
Dormers with paired
windows
Wide eaves
2nd floor window pattern
one in each corner
WWWW
Projecting bay
Small window
Porch roof
original here
with low slope
and wide eaves
Small window
at base of stair
Mid-flight stair
window
Fewer windows
this side 2nd floor
not sure if orig.
This house has three porch piers. Uncertain if the center one had a full-height column
or not. Also not sure if the middle one is centered or off-center to help frame the entrance
on the inside of the porch. The stairs and brick sidewalls are not original, do not match
other brick on the house and don't fit properly between the piers so they were likely
installed when porch enclosed.
1152 Court Street
This house is similar but lacks the flared eaves. It has a similar window patterning and
is not much older than 1133 Court. This house does have a bump-out on both sides
instead of one. The porch has square, paneled columns with minimal capitals and
bases.The balustrade is also paneled and an appropriate height if there are no code
requirements for increased height. This example is the same width as 1133 Court and
has three columns. The screens are protected around the storm door by a simple
square spindled balustrade that requires only a minimal post hidden by the door
framing. This type of porch construction provides a historic example that would also
avoid more elaborate detail requiring photographic evidence. In Iowa City it could be
considered to be very common detailing for a house of this style and era.
Another view of the house at 1152 Court
1120 Court Street is a house with pronounced and even unique detailing. It would not
be considered appropriate to mimic details such as this in a porch reconstruction with
out photographic evidence that the house orginally matched it. Adding this type of
detail woud create a false history and undermine the uniqueness of this design where
it is original.
This porch design is similar to 1152 Court Street but is not as good of an example for
the porch reconstruction at 1133 Court. Staff does not know where this house is
located or its age and style. The photo shows that it is a one or 1 1/2- story house and
is more narrow than 1133 Court. This house also has exposed rafter tails and a gable
on porch roof. The trim on the columns appears wider than 1152 Court. The panels of
the balustrade and columns are both segmented unlike 1152 Court.
Guidelines for increasing comfort, saving money,
and preserving historic character
ENERGY EFFICIENCY
IN HISTORIC HOMES
It should be a pleasant, inviting environment, and a place of privacy,
comfort and enjoyment. For many, their home is also their most valuable
asset; the result of years of savings and hard work. Protecting that
investment is extremely important.
Protecting one’s investment in a historic home
brings along unique challenges. People choose
to live in historic homes for a variety of reasons.
In popular culture, historic homes are viewed as
icons of the “American Dream,” with the white
picket fence, the front porch swing and the cozy
hearth in the living room. Historic homes were
built to last, incorporating expert craftsmanship
and durable materials. No two historic homes are
alike. Each has its own character and identity.
But historic homes also have the reputation
of being energy inefficient and difficult to maintain.
They are thought to have drafty windows,
high maintenance building materials and small,
compartmentalized rooms. In today’s world, people
have expectations for comfort and livability that
are different from those of the original builder.
As a result, it is expected that an owner of a
historic home will want to modernize his or her
home and enhance its energy efficiency. However,
it is important that the homeowner be aware that
upgrades and alterations can be accomplished
in a way that increases comfort, saves money
and preserves the historic character of the home.
This publication is a resource for owners of historic
homes when they are considering options for
upgrading and enhancing the energy efficiency of
their homes. It outlines an easy-to-follow process
that can assist the homeowner in both assessing
their home and determining which strategies make
sense in enhancing energy efficiency.
A Historic Home’s Character
is Valuable
A historic home’s character adds value to the overall
worth of the property. It is likely a one-of-a-kind design
and incorporates materials that are unique, durable
and nearly impossible to replace. Enhancing your
historic home’s energy efficiency will add to its overall
value. However, if the energy efficiency enhancements
destroy or impair historic character in the process, it is
possible that property value may decrease. With proper
planning, energy efficiency upgrades to historic homes
can be accomplished without negatively impacting
historic character, maximizing property value.
Your home is not just a
roof over your head.
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ASSESSMENT,
THEN INVESTMENT
HISTORIC HOMES
ARE INHERENTLY
ENERGY EFFICIENT
The goal of any historic home energy
enhancement project should be to incorporate
cost effective solutions while retaining the
home’s historic character and value.
Before a homeowner begins any energy efficiency
improvement project it is vitally important that:
Only after these assessments are complete
should the homeowner begin energy enhancement
investments.
Knowledge saves time and money!
1 The home’s historic character defining
features are assessed and documented;
2 The historic home’s energy efficient design
features are noted; and
3 A baseline of the home’s current energy
usage is established by an energy audit.
It is often said that “the greenest building is one
already standing.” But what does that mean when
it comes to a historic home? Most homes built in
the 1800s and early 1900s were designed and
built without central heating and cooling systems.
They were constructed to retain as much heat as
possible in the winter months and remain as cool as
possible in the summer months. If done correctly,
energy efficiency upgrades that incorporate a
historic home’s inherently efficient design will
result in a home that can be just as energy efficient
as a new home.
Historic homes represent an accumulation of
energy that went into extracting the raw materials,
manufacturing the building products and
constructing the home (also known as “embodied
energy”). Maintaining a historic home and its
materials saves the embodied energy inherent in
the home. Choosing not to demolish the historic
home to build a new home also saves energy
expended in demolition and the embodied energy
expended in building a new home. Additionally,
maintaining a historic home keeps its building
materials out of the landfill.
A historic home has unique
character. Assessing your
home’s historic character
before doing any work will
minimize potential adverse
impact on the homes
historic features.
3
Knowledge saves
time and money.
What gives your home
its character?
• Architectural style
• Windows and doors
• Chimneys
• Trim and detail
• Brick and stone
• Woodwork and plaster
Does your home
have inherent energy
efficient features?
• Existing storm windows
and doors
• Porches and awnings
• Solid masonry
• Shade trees
What is your home’s
current energy use?
• A professional energy audit
guides energy improvements
• An energy audit will establish a
baseline that will help measure
the effectiveness of energy
enhancements
1 Assess your Home
4
Making your home
energy efficient while
retaining its historic
character enhances
comfort, saves money
and increases value
Seal the Envelope
• Seal gaps with caulk and
weather stripping
• Fireplace and flue
• Add insulation
• Window and door repair
Reduce the Use
• Passive heating and
cooling
• Appliances and lighting
• Programmable thermostat
• Close off unused rooms
• HVAC tune-up
• Use powerstrips
Upgrade!
• Add or replace appropriate
storm windows and doors
(exterior or interior)
• Replace boiler/furnace with
an Energy Star model
• Add solar or geothermal power
2 Enhance your Home
5
ASSESSING A HOME’S HISTORIC CHARACTER
STEP 1
Identify the Overall Visual
Aspects of the Home
• Architectural style;
• Shape, setting, environment;
• Roof and features (cupola,
chimney, dormer);
• Projections from the house, such
as porches and bay windows;
• Window and door openings
(pattern, size, type); and
• Materials (brick, stone, wood, etc.).
STEP 2
Identify the Exterior Details
This step involves examining the
home at close range:
• Surface quality of materials
(texture and color); and
• Surface evidence of craftsmanship
or age (evidence of hand-tooling of
stone, hand-carved wood or stone,
unique mortar joints).
STEP 3
Identify the Visual Character
of Interior Spaces, Features
and Finishes
• Spatial arrangements: How does the
interior flow?
• What are the unique features of
the interior? (mantels, light fixtures,
moldings and casings, staircases, etc.)
• Are there any unique surface finishes?
(parquet floors, pressed metal ceilings,
grained doors, stencil painting, hand
painted murals, etc.)
People are drawn to historic homes because of their unique features, distinctive character
and charm. Character refers to the mixture of visual aspects and physical features that comprise
the appearance of a historic home. Before doing any work on a historic home, it is important to
identify the home’s character defining features.
There is a simple 3-step process to assist in identifying a home’s character-defining elements.
WIDE EAVES WITH WOOD BRACKETS
WOOD PORCH WITH DECORATIVE
BRACKETS AND COLUMNS
WOOD ONE-OVER-ONE DOUBLE
HUNG WINDOWS WITH LIMESTONE
SILLS AND LINTELS
BELVEDERE CUPOLA
CHARACTER DEFINING HISTORIC FEATURES
1192 LOCUST STREET, DUBUQUE
ITALIANATE ARCHITECTURAL STYLE
BRICK MASONRY CONSTRUCTION
6
INHERENT ENERGY EFFICIENT DESIGN
Most homes built before World War II have numerous features designed to retain heat in the winter
and expel heat in the summer. With the widespread adoption of central heating and cooling in the
mid-20th Century, many of these features were either forgotten or altered. With knowledge of
a home’s inherent energy efficient design, a homeowner can incorporate existing efficiencies into
planned energy efficiency enhancements. Design features to look for include:
Site Orientation
• More intensely used spaces are oriented to
the south and west, to maximize natural light
and heat gain in the winter.
• Deciduous trees provide shade in summer but
admit winter sun when leaves have fallen.
• Evergreen trees provide year-round windbreak
Roof Overhangs
Large overhangs keep high summer sun off the
walls while admitting the lower winter sun.
Porches
Provide summer shade and sheltered outdoor
living space.
Massive Masonry Walls
• In winter, masonry absorbs heat from the sun
during the day, releasing it at night.
• In summer, masonry absorbs heat from the
sun slowly, so the interior stays cooler than
midday exterior temperature. Stored heat is
released at night when its cooler.
Transoms
Provide natural light to hallways and vestibules.
Skylights, Clerestories and Dormers
Provide natural light and ventilation to top floor
interior spaces.
Storm Windows
Provide additional protection from elements during
winter months and prevent air infiltration.
TREES FOR
SUMMER SHADE
ATTIC VENTILATION
FOR SUMMER COOLING
LARGE, DEEP
EAVES FOR
SUMMER SHADE
WOOD STORM
WINDOWS TO
MINIMIZE AIR
FILTRATION
SOUTH FACING
PORCH FOR SHADE
AND OUTDOOR
LIVING IN SUMMER
ENERGY EFFICIENT DESIGN FEATURES
975 KIRKWOOD STREET, DUBUQUE
7
ASSESSING A HOME’S ENERGY PERFORMANCE
Many utility companies offer homeowners a free energy audit. It’s always
a good idea to schedule a utility company’s energy audit before you start any
work to make sure you pre-qualify for available rebates.
In Dubuque, both Black Hills Energy and Alliant
Energy offer a free basic energy audit. Depending
on what you learn from the free energy audit,
it could be important to also hire a professional
energy consultant to help guide your planning
process for energy upgrades.
A professional energy consultant should be
able to provide an analysis of your current energy
use and make projections about energy savings
from improvements to your home. You should
look for someone certified by BPI (Building
Performance Institute) or RESNET (Residential
Energy Services Network).
Comprehensive energy audits (often called
“Home Performance Assessments”) should include
diagnostics performed with a blower door, infrared
camera, and gas analyzer. The blower door test
will determine how leaky the home is and potential
savings that could come from air sealing work.
The infrared camera can see into the walls and
identify areas that are missing insulation. The gas
analyzer will check for any gas leaks and detect for
potential carbon monoxide issues that could be a
health and safety problem.
WHAT IS A “HOME PERFORMANCE”
ASSESSMENT?
This type of assessment goes beyond just looking
at energy issues in a house. Your house is a “system”
with many interactions. Some energy improvements
(like insulation) have the potential to increase
hazards like moisture, carbon monoxide, and radon.
A Home Performance Assessment will cover health
and safety issues in addition to energy efficiency.
Look for someone with professional certifications
like BPI or RESNET.
8
The energy consultant may make upgrade
recommendations that not only save a significant
amount of energy and money, but also qualify
for generous rebates from your local utility.
Be sure to check your utility’s website for the
exact rebate amounts on upgrades like:
• Increased levels of insulation and air sealing work
• A new high efficiency furnace and/or air
conditioning system
• A new water heater
• A new washing machine
• New LED lighting
In addition to advising you on energy improvements,
a good consultant will also make sure you are
aware of potential problems that could arise from
making improvements. For example, some common
recommendations might include:
• Addressing moisture issues in your basement
• Replacing knob and tube wiring before adding insulation
• Adding a powered vent to your water heater
• Adding a radon mitigation system
Use the information from your Home Performance
Assessment to make the simplest efficiency
improvements first.
There are a variety of
energy audit reports used
by utilities and energy
consultants. The U.S.
Department of Energy has
developed a report called
the “Home Energy Score”
that can help guide
homeowners in their
upgrade decisions.
The following chart shows an example of annual
utility costs broken down for a typical 1,800 square
foot house:
ELECTRICITY USE
NATURAL GAS USE
Air conditioning $200
Lighting $200
Clothes washer $200
Refrigeration/freezer $150
Television/cable/DVR $150
Computers $100
Dishwasher $100
Other electronics, etc. $100
Annual Electricity Cost: $1,200
Furnace $650
Water heater $250
Stove, dryer, etc. $100
Annual Natural Gas Cost: $1,000
TOTAL ANNUAL UTILITY COST: $2,200
9
REDUCE THE USE
COMMIT TO ENERGY SAVING BEHAVIORS
There are a number of energy efficiency strategies
that can be implemented for little cost and without
impacting a historic home’s character. You may already
be doing some of these!
Utilize your programmable thermostat
According to the U.S. Department of Energy, you can
save as much as 1% for each degree setback for a
period of 8 hours. If you adjust your thermostat in the
winter from 70 degrees to 66 while you’re sleeping
or at work, you can save about 4%.
Shut things off completely
Everybody knows they should shut their lights off
when they leave a room, but many electronics don’t
completely shut off unless you actually unplug them.
However, using a powerstrip is just like unplugging.
Connect your television, cable box, and video game
machine to a powerstrip and turn it off every night.
Take advantage of passive heating
and cooling
Many historic homes were designed with operable
transoms for natural ventilation when it gets warm.
Ceiling fans help circulate air really well, too. When it
gets cold, heavy drapes or blinds can cut down convective
currents near windows. Make sure the windows
are clear again to let through the warmth of the sun.
Care for your heating and cooling systems
Regular maintenance of your furnace and air conditioner
can save you money while prolonging the life of the
equipment. Be sure to change out your furnace filter
on a regular basis. Clean your air conditioner’s outside
unit at least once a year by removing debris and
spraying it down with a hose. Have a professional tune
up your furnace and air conditioner before each season.
Close off unused rooms
Sometimes there are rooms that don’t need to be
heated and cooled as much as the rest of the house
and can be closed off to save you money. However, it’s
important to keep your heating and cooling system
properly balanced so consult a professional before
just closing off all the vents in a room.
COMMIT TO MAKING LONG-TERM
INVESTMENTS IN YOUR HOME
If your home is a hundred years old, chances are it is
going to be around for another hundred years.
Pay special attention to the envelope
The “envelope” of your house is anything that is
part of the barrier between inside and outside.
Investments you make in envelope improvements like
insulation and air sealing can reap rewards for many
decades of energy savings and comfort. But beware
of poorly designed solutions that can lead to mold
and rot and contribute to unhealthy indoor air quality.
Use durable, traditional materials
Old growth wood, hardwoods, granite, slate, and
terrazzo are all materials that add value to your
home and last a long time, saving you money on
replacement costs. Avoid removing old growth wood
trim and replacing it with short-lived, wide-grained
contemporary wood or vinyl. Especially consider
restoring historic wood windows rather than replacing
them with new windows.
Invest in high-efficiency equipment
High-efficiency equipment may be more expensive
to purchase but will save you more money in the
long run. Look for ENERGY STAR rated equipment and
appliances. Rebates are typically better for higher
efficiency equipment as well. Once you improve the
envelope you may be able to replace the heating
and cooling systems with smaller units that are less
expensive to purchase and operate.
10
With a Wi-Fi thermostat you can control your
heating and cooling from the palm of your hand and
save money on your utility bills.
11
SEAL THE ENVELOPE
While many people immediately think of a drafty
window or door, the majority of air is actually
escaping through the attic. Most attics are
intentionally vented so the air that’s moving from
the house to the attic just flows right outside.
A big part of what’s happening is called the “stack
effect.” Air is coming into a house through a
“leaky” basement and pressure caused by the
stack effect moves that air upwards and out
of the house through the attic.
Air Sealing
The best way to solve the problem of a “leaky
house” is to seal all the cracks and openings in
both the basement and the attic. This slows
down the stack effect and keeps conditioned air
from escaping. The most common tool for doing this
work (called “air sealing”) is a can of spray foam like
Great Stuff. Larger openings can be blocked off with
pieces of rigid foam. While you can tackle some of
this work yourself, a professional contractor typically
uses a blower door to accelerate the air flowing
through the house to find all the holes to be sealed.
Common areas that need air sealing:
• Large openings in the attic along the outside walls
• Chimney through the attic (be sure to use appropriate
materials on heated surfaces like chimneys)
• Attic hatch or entrance
• Can lights open to the attic
• Ductwork and piping penetrations in both the attic
and basement
• Area along the top of outside basement walls
(called sill plates)
• Outlets and switches
• Windows and doors
The biggest source of energy loss in most homes comes from “conditioned air”
(air that has been warmed by a furnace or cooled by an air conditioner)
escaping to the outside.
STACK EFFECT
INFILTRATION
nps.gov
nps.gov
Insulation
Insulation is also critical for heat loss, of course.
It just isn’t as effective if air is zipping around it
through holes that need to be sealed. You can tell
this is happening in areas where you see dirty
insulation (it’s working like a filter to catch the dirt
while the air is just moving through it). Once the
air leaks have been sealed, it’s time to focus on
improving the insulation levels.
Most historic homes were not originally insulated,
so if there is currently insulation it was added much
later. The current code requirement for attic
insulation in new homes in a cold climate is R-49.
This is most easily achieved by blowing in 15–18
inches of cellulose or fiberglass insulation.
Insulation in a basement can be a little trickier, and
if you have moisture concerns, you may only be able
to insulate the areas that are above ground level.
Insulating walls can also be difficult or not possible
if there is knob and tube wiring still in the walls.
The most common method is to drill holes and blow
in “dense-packed” cellulose. One of the advantages
of this method is the added air-sealing qualities of
dense-pack cellulose. Newer technologies such as
spray-foam insulation have become popular in new
construction, but are not recommended in historic
homes, as they can create moisture issues.
It is also important to insulate pipes and ductwork.
If there is ductwork running through an attic it
should be wrapped with a minimum of R-5 insulation.
Hot water pipes in a basement should be insulated
(all pipes should be insulated if there’s any chance
of freezing) and the water heater tank should also
be wrapped in insulation.
This image shows
the approximate
amount of air
leakage coming from
various locations
throughout a house.
This image shows
the approximate
leakage coming from
various locations
throughout a house.
The following table lists some insulation R-values per inch
for popular insulation materials:
INSULATION TYPE R/INCH
Fiberglass batts, blown, board 2.4 - 4.4
Cellulose blown 3.0 - 3.6
Mineral wool batts, blown, board 2.4 - 4.4
Vermiculite or perlite 2.3 - 2.7
Expanded polystyrene (white) 3.6 - 4.2
Expanded polystyrene (blue/pink) 5.0
Polyisocyanurate board 5.6 - 7.6
12
nps.gov
13
What’s more important for windows is that they are
working properly and sealed to prevent drafts and
moisture. Saving historic windows keeps their materials
out of the landfill and saves the embodied energy
both in the original window and that expended in the
construction and transport of the replacement window.
When considering what to do with historic windows,
all owners of historic homes should first consider
restoring their original windows. There are many
advantages to restoring instead of replacing your
original wood windows:
• The original wood is much higher quality and long-lasting
than wood used to manufacture windows today.
• Wood windows were constructed to be repaired.
If one component fails, it can be repaired or replaced.
If a component of a replacement window fails, the
entire window must be replaced.
• Wood windows can be retrofitted with weather
stripping, which increases the energy efficiency of
the window.
• The cost of properly restoring original wood windows
is usually less than the cost of new windows.
• The historic character of the home will be preserved.
When original windows MUST be replaced, be sure to
choose a style and material that complements the
home’s original design.
Window Restoration
Original wood windows are the soul of a historic
home. They are often the most important character-
defining elements of a home. Typically made of
old-growth lumber that is rot resistant, historic wood
windows were built to last hundreds of years.
Unfortunately, historic wood windows are often the
first casualties of a poorly planned historic home
rehabilitation project. As a result, historic character
is irretrievably lost for little or no economic savings.
REPLACE HISTORIC WOOD WINDOWS
ONLY AS A LAST RESORT
Homeowners often believe that just replacing their
original single pane windows with new double pane
windows will result in significant energy savings.
However, studies have shown that only about 10-15%
of a home’s energy loss is through its windows. The
U.S. Department of Energy estimates that windows
are responsible for only 25% of a home’s heating bills.
Window replacement is one of the more expensive
home renovation projects. Depending on the cost of
a window replacement project, the National Trust for
Historic Preservation estimates that the average
payback period for replacement windows is 40 to
250 years. The average lifespan of a replacement
window is about 20 years, far shorter than the payback
period. Window replacement is usually a bad
investment for a historic homeowner.
The greenest windows are the historic home’s
original windows. A good storm window combined
with a restored single pane window is very close to
the insulation value of a new double pane window.
Windows are often the most important character
defining feature of a historic home. A restored
window with properly installed storm can be just
as energy efficient as a new window.
UPGRADE!
Once you’ve sealed the envelope, it’s time to consider upgrading
the other energy consuming systems in your home.
Furnace
Especially in a cold climate like Dubuque, the
furnace is the most important system to address.
Forced-air, natural gas furnaces are the most
popular and cost effective heating systems in
this area. If your furnace is older than 12 years
and not a high-efficiency (sealed combustion)
furnace, you should consider replacing it. You
should also make sure to consider improvements
to the ductwork which can result in both
significant energy savings and more consistent
temperatures throughout the house.
A professional energy consultant can help
recommend the best improvements in this area.
A high-efficiency furnace includes a sealed
combustion area that uses PVC piping for air
intake and exhaust as shown in this photo.
Geothermal
Another highly energy efficient heating source to
consider is a geothermal system. These systems
are all-electric and provide both heating and
cooling. Some important factors when evaluating
a geothermal system:
• Must have a tight, well-insulated house for it to be
effective
• Must have a good area on property to drill the wells
(not too rocky)
• Current air conditioning system is near end-of-life
in addition to furnace
• Convert all gas-fired appliances to electric to
eliminate gas bill completely
14
mills-inc.com
Water Heater
Water heaters are another significant source of
energy use. Like furnaces, natural gas is the most
popular and cost effective fuel for water heaters in
the Dubuque area. On-demand (or tankless) water
heaters are more efficient than standard tank
water heaters. One reason for this is that there
are no “standby losses” from hot water sitting in a
tank for long periods of time before it’s used. If you
were trying to go all-electric, a high efficiency
option is a heat pump water heater that transfers
energy from the surrounding air to the water in
the storage tank.
Lighting
Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFLs) were a popular
energy saving choice for many years, but LEDs are
now the preferred type of energy efficient lightbulb.
If your house is still filled with incandescent bulbs
you will see a dramatic savings from converting to
LEDs. An equivalent 60 watt bulb uses only 10 watts
which means a savings of over 80%. LEDs also
last much longer, with estimated life-spans up to
20 years. In recent years, the cost to purchase
these blubs has decreased significantly, and there
are many more options to choose from.
Appliances
The main appliances you should consider for energy
savings potential are your refrigerator, clothes
washer, and dishwasher. Always look for ENERGY
STAR rated appliances and for even better savings
consider products listed as “ENERGY STAR Most
Efficient 2016.” You can search for products at the
www.energystar.gov website.
REDUCED UTILITY COST BREAKDOWN
The following table shows a 25% overall reduction in
annual utility costs compared to the pre-retrofit table
shown on page 9. :
Solar
Once you’ve completed all the possible energy
efficient upgrades on your house, consider
if adding a solar system might make sense.
State and Federal tax credits make solar a very
attractive option right now. Some important
factors when evaluating a solar system:
• Roof was recently replaced or needs to be replaced.
• Good area of nearly south-facing roof.
• Able to be set back far enough from front of
house (as described in the City of Dubuque’s
Architectural Guidelines).
15
ELECTRICITY USE
NATURAL GAS USE
Air conditioning $180
Lighting $80
Clothes washer $140
Refrigeration/freezer $120
Television/cable/DVR $120
Computers $80
Dishwasher $80
Other electronics, etc. $100
Annual Electricity Cost: $900
Furnace $450
Water heater $200
Stove, dryer, etc. $100
Annual Natural Gas Cost: $750
TOTAL ANNUAL UTILITY COST: $1,650
The experience of living in a historic home can be greatly
enhanced when the homeowner makes energy efficiency
improvements. Assessment of the home’s historic
character, its already existing energy efficient features
and the home’s existing energy use prior to completing
any energy efficiency improvements will assure that
the home’s historic character is minimally impacted and
that the homeowner’s money is spent wisely.
The Energy Efficiency in Historic Homes:
Guidelines For Increasing Comfort, Saving Money
and Preserving Historic Character provides a
framework for owners of historic homes when
contemplating energy efficiency enhance-
ments. These guidelines are not intended to
be a thorough manual of practice for complete
energy upgrades of historic buildings.
For more information, visit
www.heritageworksdbq.com, or contact us
at info@heritageworksdbq.com.
Authors: Heritage Works, Inc. and Trailhead Energy
Research and Editors: Eric Coffman, Trailhead Energy; Duane Hagerty and Rachel Wilberding, Heritage Works
Design: Erin Neises, Neises Design
This research and publication have been paid for by a grant from the Dubuque Metropolitan Area Solid Waste Agencys.
Myths About Insulating Old House Walls
Submitted by Bob Yapp on Sun, 06/07/2009 - 2:48pm
I was recently chatting with a neighbor who asked, " We love our 100 year old home. However, it sure
is a drafty old place! We're interested in blowing insulation into the walls, what do you think Bob?"
Let me start by saying, if you live in an old house you are part of a large group of plaster dust lovers. I
have great respect for and kinship with people choosing to live on tree-lined streets full of unique old
homes with character.
Having said that, it's time for an old house reality check. If your goal is to continue loving your old
house, make it energy efficient while keeping your costs down, then you absolutely don't want to blow
insulation into the sidewalls.
One of the top reasons for exterior paint failure, termites and structural damage to old houses is loose
cellulose or fiberglass insulation blown into the sidewalls. "Hey, wait a minute Bob, if we can't insulate
the sidewalls, how can we afford to heat our old house?" That's a valid question but you need to think
of air movement in your house as if the house were a chimney. Heat loss primarily happens in an
upward movement. So, I want you to insulate your attic space to an R-value that matches the region
you live in. The U.S. Department of Energy has a map showing the zones,
www.energystar.gov. After insulating your attic be sure you have good eave-to- roof-peak
ventilation. You should also friction fit foam board insulation into the box sills in your basement (the
area where the beams or floor joists rest on top of the foundation).
Most building codes today require that when a new house or addition is built in a northern climate, it
must have a vapor barrier. When a new house is going up, they frame the sidewalls and install exterior
sheathing. The next step is to go inside and install fiberglass, batting insulation between the 2" x 4" or
6" studs. Before the drywall can be installed over this wall, 4 mil thick plastic sheeting must be laid
over the insulation on the entire wall. That plastic sheeting acts as the vapor barrier.
We create warm moist air in our homes by cooking, taking showers, having plants, breathing etc. That
warm, moist vapor is attracted to the exterior walls. This vapor enters the wall through hairline wall
cracks, outlets, switches and window trim. In new construction, the plastic vapor barrier under the
drywall stops the wet air from getting to the insulation and condensating.
In old houses with plaster walls, there is no vapor barrier under the plaster so the wet air hits the
insulation and condensates. This wets down the blown-in insulation making it a wet mass at the
bottom of the wall cavity creating an inviting place for termites and dry rot. Then the moisture enters
the exterior sheathing and wood siding causing permanent exterior paint failure. Since the
homeowner, for some "unexplained" reason, can't keep paint on the house anymore, they call the vinyl
siding salesman. This makes the problem even worse as you now have backer board (insulation board)
and vinyl siding which in combination creates a vapor barrier on the outside of the wall that stops the
free exchange of air, trapping more moisture.
The other big issue is "pillowing". Today we have dense pack cellulose insulation as well a foam. The
installers cannot control the pressure of these products being jammed into your plastered wall cavity.
They should only be used with open walls which means losing all your original plaster. Foam expands
and the pressure used to install dense pack cellulose properly cannot be controlled within a closed wall.
I am seeing catastrophic plaster failures in old and historic homes with these two products. The
pressure from the installation process is great enough to loosen the nails holding the wood or wire lath
to the stud wall. Once this happens the plaster bows inward, begins to crack and loses its bond to
the lath.
The other factor that must be examined is payback. Lets say you spend $4,000 to have your old house
walls insulated. In my experience you would probably save about $200 per year on heating and air
conditioning costs. So, it would take twenty years to recoup the money you spent on the insulation.
Results and pricing can vary and this doesn't take into account the termites, dry rot or paint failure.
I've inspected thousands of old houses with blown-in insulation and over 80% of them have this wet
insulation problem.
If your house is drafty then tighten it up. Weather-strip your windows and doors, keep the house
painted/caulked well, insulate the attic and box sills. This will stop the air infiltration, make you more
comfortable and really save money on utilities.
For those who have already blown insulation in their old homes, it can be removed. You'll need to
remove several courses (rows) of siding and sheathing from the bottom of each side of the house as
well as above the windows and doors. Just pull out the wet mess, let the wall dry out for a while and re-
install the siding and sheathing.
You can also try to create a vapor barrier with special interior, vapor barrier grade paints. The
effectiveness of the paints is severely limited and you'd still have to caulk all the window trim, outlets
and switches. If you do this you'll also want to take the 1" diameter plastic plugs out of the siding. This
is where they drill those attractive holes in the outside wall to blow-in the insulation. Replace them
with screened and louvered 1" diameter vent plugs. After about a year the wall should be dried out and
you can fill the holes or replace the siding or stucco in those areas. You can buy these vent plugs at
lumberyards.
Again, the primary issue for energy efficiency is stopping excessive air infiltration. There is no
reasonable payback to blowing insulation, foam or dense pack into the plastered sidewalls of your old
or historic house. This practice has truly been the ruination of many of our historic central city homes.
For more information go to www.nps.gov and look for Preservation Briefs on energy efficiency. This
is the site of the National Park Service.
1
MINUTES PRELIMINARY
HISTORIC PRESERVATION COMMISSION
EMMA J. HARVAT HALL
November 12, 2020
MEMBERS PRESENT: Kevin Boyd, Carl Brown, Sharon DeGraw, Helen Burford,
Lyndi Kiple, Cecile Kuenzli, Quentin Pitzen, Jordan
Sellergren, Austin Wu
MEMBERS ABSENT: None
STAFF PRESENT: Jessica Bristow, Anne Russett
OTHERS PRESENT: Kevin Monson
RECOMMENDATIONS TO COUNCIL: (become effective only after separate Council
action)
CALL TO ORDER:
Chairperson Boyd called the meeting to order at 5:30pm.
PUBLIC DISCUSSION OF ANYTHING NOT ON THE AGENDA:
None
CERTIFICATE OF APPROPRIATENESS:
109 East College Street, 111-113 East College Street, 115 East College Street, 117-123 East
College Street, and 125-127 East College Street – Local Historic Landmark
Bristow began her presentation about the properties on East College Street by discussing each
building. 109 East College Street is the West Bay of the Dooley Block. Any of the wood
elements on the front of 109 East College would be cleaned and repaired. For the rear
demolition, a door will be removed as well as the top of the wall. This is all that will be done to
this building except for the addition.
111-113 East College Street is the Sears, Roebuck & Co. building and it is missing some
terracotta elements. These missing pieces will be replicated as closely as possible. Some of the
masonry joints will be pointed and the front doors replaced as well. The entire back half of this
building will be removed at a point that is roughly aligned with the back half of the other Dooley
Block next door, with the new back wall having a row of punched openings and a small passage
door.
115 East College Street is the East Bay of the Dooley Block. The wood elements on this
building will be painted. On the back, there is a smaller, non-historic one-story addition that will
Electronic Meeting
(Pursuant to Iowa Code section 21.8)
An electronic meeting was held because a meeting in person was impossible or impractical
due to concerns for the health and safety of Commission members, staff, and the public
presented by COVID-19.
2
be removed, a second-floor door leading onto that roof that will be replaced (with the addition of
a guardrail), and the stairs and gutter removed as well. The interior door that goes from the
building to the addition will be removed and replaced with an exterior door.
117-123 East College Street is the Crescent Block, and it is one of the main renovations for
adaptive reuse. A lot of the work will happen with the storefront - two second-floor windows will
be removed and replaced, the entire “Union Bar” storefront will be replaced, and part of the
“Soap Opera” storefront will be remodeled for accessibility. On the back, plant material along
the back wall will be removed, individual windows on the third floor will be removed and
replaced, a fire escape as well as two individual windows will be removed, and the entire farm
store addition(s) will be removed so that the back wall will be in the original location. Since the
building is a three-story building, it will also include an elevator addition in a portion of the
existing “Revival” space. The new storefront (Union Bar) will be flat with recessed entry doors.
125-127 East College Street is the College Block Building, and it has had the facade cleaned
several times as well as other work and repairs over the years. On the front, some of the
elements will be cleaned and repainted. On the back, there is a one-story historic addition with a
door, a fire escape, and stairs that will be removed, with the door being replaced.
Bristow explained the new addition drawings/plans for the work on the West half of the Dooley
Block.
Bristow said that Preservation Brief 14, New Exterior Additions to Historic Buildings, talked
about adding a larger addition in a denser area and creating a sense of scale, by dividing the
facade up into smaller sections but is unable to happen with this project due to spatial
constraints mentioned by the architects. She said that this project does not follow the guidelines
generally, and said that the Commission discussed during the last meeting some of the
concessions that they would be willing to make in order to have this project proceed and save
the aforementioned buildings from any more invasive development. The project would need to
be approved through the use of an exception. The site is on the outside edge of the boundary
for the National Register Historic District and can provide parking access off of the alley, and
allow the building to be set back visually from the facade. Bristow said Staff felt that this
uncommon situation could be used as an exception to approve the elements of the project that
do not generally follow the guidelines.
Boyd opened the public hearing. Hearing no discussion, Boyd closed the public hearing.
Kuenzli asked, if the Commission approves, if all of the buildings that do not currently have a
local landmark designation will receive it. Bristow said that it would be a condition of the
approval that they must be landmarked. She said that they are currently in process, that they
have passed the first reading of council and won’t get through the third reading until December
1st. Kuenzli said that she does not want to sign off on this until that landmark designation is a
done deal. She asked about potential arguments to be made by outside parties for future project
exceptions. Boyd said that the Commission exists to clarify the gray area when it arises.
Kuenzli asked who the targeted residents of the building will be. Wu said that, from the
perspective of a student, it seems out of the price range for most college students, so he
thought that the intended audience would be young professionals. Kuenzli asked if there will be
some apartments designated for affordable housing for a percentage of the residents. Boyd said
that he did not know specifically for this property. Russett said that the applicant is requesting
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tax increment financing, which comes with the responsibility to address the issue of affordable
housing. Monson said that Russett is correct, and that they are currently following the directions
of the City Council.
MOTION: Burford moved to approve the Certificate of Appropriateness for the project at
109 East College Street, 111-113 East College Street, 115 East College Street, 117-123
East College Street, and 125-127 East College Street as presented in the application
through the use of exception to the guidelines for the uncommon situation occurring
with this project. The uncommon situation is described as the significance of these
properties, both individually and as a group, their location on the outer edge of a
proposed historic district, their ability to provide parking access from the alley and
hidden from view, and their ability to provide setback addition. The project approval
would include the following conditions: a local landmark overlay zoning for all included
buildings will be complete prior to the issuance of the certificate of appropriateness, rear
window and door condition is documented prior to replacement, the condition of the tile
entry at Crescent Block is documented and the new tiles match the existing, and the
storefront of the Crescent Block is revised with recessed entries. DeGraw seconded the
motion. The motion carried on a vote of 9-0.
Monson said that the Commission has made a very important decision in saving a very critical
part of Downtown and putting these storefronts into a landmark status so that they can never be
removed or demolished. He thanked and applauded the Commission for their actions.
REPORT ON CERTIFICATES ISSUED BY CHAIR AND STAFF:
Certificate of No Material Effect - Chair and Staff Review
620 Oakland Avenue - Longfellow Historic District
This house was partially crushed by a tree - the damaged porch and rafters have already been
fixed.
622 North Van Buren Street - Brown Historic District
Some railing was replaced that was damaged by the storm.
220 North Lucas Street - Goosetown/Horace Mann Conservation District
The foundation of the garage was damaged by a fallen tree. The owner is lifting the garage,
putting a new foundation under it, and setting it back down.
426 Church Street - Goosetown/Horace Mann Conservation District
There are several projects at this location - this is just the approval of storm window product
information for the Historic Preservation Fund.
935 East College Street - Local Historic Landmark
Work is being done on the porch (it has been worked on many times in the past). The River City
Housing Collective had a report done on the status of this house that included historic
information as well as details about the condition of the house and future work to be done. The
contractor then put together a detailed proposal for work.
REPORT ON CERTIFICATES ISSUED BY CHAIR AND STAFF:
Minor Review - Staff Review
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426 Church Street - Goosetown/Horace Mann Conservation District
The porch floor has some rot that will be replaced. The railing will also be replaced with
something that is much more in line with the style of the house.
112 South Governor - College Hill Conservation District
This is a rental property with an attic apartment without egress windows, which caused issues
with the housing inspectors. There was no place where the gable window could be replaced by
a typical one, and there is not enough room, structurally, to put a dormer in. A contractor came
up with the suggestion to install a skylight that is manufactured as an egress window.
1177 East Court Street - Longfellow Historic District
A solar array will be installed on the flat portion of the shed dormer.
320 East College Street, Trinity Episcopal Church - Local Historic Landmark
One of the wood framed windows in the courtyard area of the addition will be replaced with a
product that looks similar but will be a metal storefront.
214 East Jefferson Street - Jefferson Street Historic District
A large format asphalt shingle was approved for the roof, but there has been difficulty in finding
a source for enough of it. The color is meant to mimic the original slate tile roof.
533 South Summit Street - Summit Street Historic District
A second-floor window where most of the sash is broken will be replaced.
721 Grant Street - Longfellow Historic District
One of the basement windows will become an egress window.
1527 Muscatine Avenue - Dearborn Street Conservation District
A lot of the wood trim around the stucco was rotting and will be replaced. Some of the sashes
will either be replaced or repaired.
CONSIDERATION OF MINUTES FOR OCTOBER 8, 2020:
Burford said that her comment on the top of the second to last page was not about saving the
existing entrances, but rather about accommodating the needs of the theatre for large items.
Bristow said that she is removing “saving the existing entrances” and changing it to
“accommodating the needs of the theatre for large items”.
MOTION: Kuenzli moved that the minutes be approved as amended. Pitzen seconded.
Motion carries on a vote of 9-0.
COMMISSION DISCUSSION:
Bristow said that the Commission had correspondence from William Means, who owns the local
landmark property at 120 Fairchild Street, who wrote an email with questions regarding 410-412
Clinton Street, in which he also asked to have the email addresses of the Commission members
so that he could reach out to them. Bristow said that it would be fine for the Commission
members to have individual conversations with Means when they review the project, as long as
they note during the meeting that they had had prior discussion with him. Kuenzli asked if they
would be discussing the letter.
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Boyd and Bristow outlined the logistical steps and processes of the project. Bristow said that
they will start the local landmark process next month for 410-412 Clinton Street. Kuenzli asked
for explanation about the issues of setback mentioned in the letter. Bristow said that the
setback, how far a residential property needs to be set back from the property line, is a distance
that is potentially greater than what they are proposing with their new development and Means
was concerned if that setback was allowed on the corner, then any of the other houses that are
not landmarks that could be removed, developers might request that same reduced setback.
Boyd said that the zoning that is used on this project is unlikely to be used for future
preservations. Russett said that the applicant will be requesting a reduction in setbacks in
exchange for the landmark designation.
Boyd said that he attended the PastForward National Preservation Conference and attended
several sessions about historically underrepresented communities and how preservation fits
through that lens. He said that, nationwide, they have made a lot of strides in preserving black
history and they still have a long way to go. The National Trust has made a large effort to gather
funds to help preserve sites related to black history. Boyd said that he thought the session on
Hispanic communities was interesting and fit very neatly into the National Park Service’s way of
preserving things. He said the session on LGBTQ history had a lot of interest and push from the
presenters to preserve LGBTQ sites and figure out ways to tell LGBTQ history. Boyd said that
his takeaway was that they still have a lot to do in regards to LGBTQ preservation.
Bristow said that she also attended sessions related to more modern construction and starting
to preserve and protect these types of areas now. DeGraw said that she found the presentation
about elevating whole buildings in Florida and the Florida Keys, in order to accommodate the
presence of water, very interesting. She said that the video about putting ultra-modern additions
on the backs of houses within a historic district is something that could come to Iowa City in the
next 10-15 years. Burford said that there is a house in Morningside Heights that seems to have
already done that.
COMMISSION INFORMATION:
None.
ADJOURNMENT: Boyd moved to adjourn the meeting. Seconded by DeGraw. The meeting was
adjourned at 6:53pm.
Minutes submitted by Lauren Ralls.
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HISTORIC PRESERVATION COMMISSION ATTENDANCE RECORD
2019-2020
NAME
TERM
EXP. 11/14 12/12 1/09 2/13 3/12 4/09 5//1
4
6/11 7/09 8/13 9/10 10/08 11/12
AGRAN,
THOMAS 6/30/20 X X X O/E X X X X -- -- -- -- --
BOYD, KEVIN 6/30/23 X O/E X X X X X X X X X X X
BROWN,
CARL
6/30/23 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- X O/E X X X
BURFORD,
HELEN 6/30/21 X X X X O/E X X X X X X X X
CLORE,
GOSIA 6/30/20 X O/E X X X X X X -- -- -- -- --
DEGRAW,
SHARON 6/30/22 X O/E X X O/E X X X X X X O/E X
KUENZLI,
CECILE 6/30/22 X X X X O/E X X X X O/E X X X
KIPLE, LYNDI 6/30/22 X X O/E O/E X X X X X X X X
PITZEN,
QUENTIN 6/30/21 X X X X O/E X X X X O/E X X X
SELLERGREN,
JORDAN 6/30/22 X X O/E O/E X X X X X X X X X
WU, AUSTIN 6/30/23 -- -- O/E X X O/E X X X X X X X